Postcards From Paris

24th November, 2014

We took the Eurostar from London to Paris ~ a speeding arrow shooting across the drizzling European countryside on a grey October afternoon. We arrived tired, melting into some underground jazz spot for souped leeks, baguettes smothered in butter, flambéed fish filets and what little wine our drowsy eyes could stand.

Next morning the sun shone bright, rocketing through the gabled pair of double french windows cornering our cozy, brocade-covered room at the Hotel Duc de Saint-Simon. Our first full day in Paris. Breakfast was perfection: patisserie quiche and little lavender pots of yogurt. We rented bikes off the street and pedaled to the outskirts of town, passing under the Eiffel Tower to finally arrive at the new Fondation Louis Vuitton, a Frank Gehry-designed architectural masterpiece that had opened just two days prior. Afterwards, we biked on and on, cycling circles of city. We saw the sun set over the Seine, ate dinner at Chez Julien then tumbled into drinks and dancing at Chez Castel, the newly reimagined, André Saraiva-designed nightclub that’s redefining the art of the grownup romper room. It boasts floor after winding floor of decadent, intimate party rooms, and tucked into the folds of its lowest level, a centuries-old stone grotto hosts a grand piano, around which the French kids gather to smoke Vogues and sing to each other as the evening turns from black to blue. We drank menthol-rich Get 27’s like locals and gave our best shot to (but still badly butchered) every chorus.
PostcardsParis2ABOVE + BELOW| little moments around the Hotel Duc de Saint-Simon, a perfectly Wes Anderson-esque gem we discovered by way of Waris Ahluwalia’s recommendation on A Hotel LifePostcardsParis3 PostcardsParis4 PostcardsParis5 PostcardsParis6Day two began with breakfast on the Seine, then a whole lot of meandering around Le Jardin du Luxembourg and the Tuileries, a visit to the Peter Lindbergh exhibit at Gagosian Gallery and shopping along the Rue Saint-Honoré. We stumbled upon O Canto de Paris, a great vintage store where I found the most wonderful Pierre Cardin hat and he picked up an Yves Saint Laurent poncho. We bought magazines at Colette, then slunk off to Le Comptoir Generale ~ a coffee shop-meets-vintage store-meets-revolutionary hideaway-meets temple of ghetto culture ~ to wile away the afternoon reading them. We stopped for a snack afterward at Hotel du Nord down the road, only because we’d seen it earlier in a Lindbergh photo, then joined the 7pm queue for a dinner table at Frenchie’s Wine Bar, arguably the best meal we enjoyed in Europe. Ah, but more on so many of these little adventures in the days to come.
PostcardsParis7I wore my standard Ray-Ban sunniesa massive cashmere scarf/blanket/wrap/travel-necessity by Donna Karansweater by BCBGtop by VinceChanel bagMichele watchAYR jeans and Rag+Bone shoes. Can’t go wrong with great basics; they really just work everywhere.PostcardsParis8ABOVE| an unexpected art installationPostcardsParis9KELLY WEARS| Ray-Ban sunniesBCBG sweaterVince topChanel bagMichele watchAYR jeans and Rag+Bone shoes  ZACH WEARS| Moscot sunnies, vintage Yves Saint Laurent poncho from O Canto de Paris, Rick Owens pantsPostcardsParis10Day three we gorged ourselves with visual stimulation. We awoke early and commuted out, out, out to Le Marché Aux Puces de Saint-Ouen ~ the world’s most fantastical flea market. We shopped ourselves silly, stocking up on silver fish forks and fromage knives. We ate onion soup from a steaming Le Creuset cauldron and barely made it to the recently-renovated and reopened Picasso Museum in the last wave of entry before closing. Later, at one of those sidewalk cafes that are so quintessentially Parisian, we made friends with a crusty cowboy dance instructor from New Orleans and ate cheese and escargot. It got dark early, so we walked and we walked, criss-crossing the City of Light as it sparkled of night. We accidented upon a showcase of international, up-and-coming photographers, and I bought a print from Russian artist Maria Pleshkova because it brought tears to my eyes. We shared a salad at Café Flore, a bubble bath at the hotel, and a fine night’s sleep in our canopied double bed.
PostcardsParis11 PostcardsParis12ABOVE + BELOW| Notre Dame at nightPostcardsParis13 PostcardsParis14 PostcardsParis15We began day four with our favorite little lavender yogurt pots and two cappuccinos the size of soufflés. It was a fine day, and we gobbled our way around Marché des Enfants Rouges ~ a food market dating back to the 1600’s ~ eating overstuffed crepes by Alain and a true Moroccan tagine. Afterward, we walked and walked. We ambled around Le Marais, tucking into its abundance of vintage and concept stores, then popped over to the Pompidou Centre for the Duchamp retrospective. We drank Kir Royales on the roof, then moseyed over the Seine as the Eiffel Tower slowly lit up and the sun set behind languid clouds. We were craving a true French coq au vin, so we made a dinner reservation at Le Procope, the oldest cafe in Paris, where they serve that classic dish por deux from a glistening copper pot. We caught the late night burlesque show at Crazy Horse and rode home in a cab as the evening drizzled softly.
PostcardsParis16 PostcardsParis17ABOVE + BELOW| what skyline can compare to the rooftops of Paris?! This city always reminds me to look UP more often.
PostcardsParis18 PostcardsParis19 PostcardsParis20 PostcardsParis21ABOVE| Outgrowth, an arresting installation by Thomas Hirschhorn at the Pompidou Centre  BELOW| an intrepid (and immensely popular) street performer outside the PompidouPostcardsParis22 PostcardsParis23ABOVE| his (Y-3) and hers (Derek Lam) comfortable, colorful walking shoes  BELOW| wearing vintage Pierre Cardin hat from O Canto de Paris, Ray-Ban sunniesMichele watch, Comme des Garcons blazer from Le Marché Aux Puces de Saint-Ouen, Theory shirt, AYR pants and Derek Lam shoesPostcardsParis24 PostcardsParis25 PostcardsParis26ABOVE| in the courtyard of the Louvre, wearing a vintage Pierre Cardin hat from O Canto de Paris, Comme des Garcons blazer from Le Marché Aux Puces de Saint-Ouen, Everlane sweater, Chanel bagMichele watchSeven For All Mankind leather pants and Rag+Bone shoesPostcardsParis27The fifth day was sadly our last. We picked up breakfast down the street from our hotel, at a boulangerie on Rue du Bac next door to Deyrolle. I can never go to Paris without a trip to Deyrolle; it’s the ultimate cabinet de curiosités. On this trip we were lucky, for the shop was hosting a special exhibition of works and curations by Damien Hirst ~ his chemical-littered ‘dead zoo’ a reminder that, good or bad, nothing lasts forever. With a tinge of melancholy, we wandered to Espace Kiliwatch for more vintage visual stimulation, more indie European magazines to take home and dissect. Our last meal was a cozying tureen of pumpkin soup and a rich Bordeaux at Cinq Mars, then off to the airport as clouds gathered overhead and rain began piercing the sky. We replied in kind, with our own tear-filled goodbyes. Theres’s just no place like Paris.
PostcardsParis28ABOVE| insects that have turned themselves into walking leaves for protection from predators ~ a wonder of nature!PostcardsParis29 PostcardsParis30ABOVE + BELOW| installation works by Damien Hirst at DeyrollePostcardsParis31 PostcardsParis32

  • I love the architecture and flowers in windows look amazing <3 I love when people care about their surroundings so much!

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  • Beautiful photos! I love the fresh and vibrant colors! And you looks o comfy in your outfit- love your Chanel!

    X

    Miri

    http://currentlywearing.com

  • Royal Wang

    This post tells life is so wonderful and we should enjoy it

    http://www.fashionculturediary.blogspot.it/

  • You are such a talented writer – I could almost taste all the butter! I really want to go to Paris now, but I want someone who I could share it with even more!

    COOCOO FOR COCO

  • Nico

    The shots here are always superb and I lvoe your style!

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  • SR

    What a great travel post–stunning photos, excellent story, wonderful tips on places to go…and of course fabulous looks (those Derek Lam shoes = !!). Thanks for sharing this and letting us have a little escape-by-proxy.

  • These photos are so beautiful, really want to go back to Paris soon!

    xx Cheyenne
    http://www.bohemianjourneys.blogspot.com

  • Love these photos!

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  • Man, I want to get back there someday! I don’t think I appreciated it nearly enough when I was 17…and definitely didn’t take the time to look up enough!

    I love that, even in the chilly October, you can look up and see colorful flowers – a great reminder that Paris is a magical, beautiful city!

  • Shannon

    Gosh I loved Paris! My trip this summer was more of a ‘see as much as you can’ type of trip- next time, I am definitely going to try to enjoy some of those cafes you mentioned, food markets and gorgeous architecture!
    https://classiccosmopolite.wordpress.com/

  • Melanie Pogson

    Beautiful. Thanks for the quick visit to Paris! I love the way you told the story 🙂 Now I feel like I’ve just been..

  • ccjourn

    so frenchy !

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TheGlamourai is a webzine produced by Kelly Framel, a multi-media creative director based in downtown New York (but constantly bouncing around the world). Part fashion blog, part glossy mag, part fantasy travel portal, it's your ultimate online destination for stylish daydreams. Tune in for inspirational editorials, beauty tutorials, outfit ideas, DIYs, jet-set travel tips and more!
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